Flood Insurance Risk Rating 2.0: New & Improved

The National Flood Insurance Program had some major changes that became effective October 1st. They are calling this initiative “Risk Rating 2.0”, in which FEMA considers a substantial leap forward when it comes to flood insurance. While some of the changes are minor details, there are a few pretty big adjustments to this coverage that you’ll want to know about in order to best serve your clients.

Since the 1970s, this type of insurance coverage has been rated based solely off of a zone determined by the property location and elevation. FEMA now has years of analyzed data combined with a conscious effort to make flood insurance more fairly rated.
With the evolution of the new Risk Rating 2.0 program, FEMA will now use the following factors to more accurately rate a property for flood insurance:
  • Flood frequency
  • Multiple flood types such as river overflow, storm surge, coastal erosion and heavy rainfall
  • Distance to a water source
  • Property characteristics such as construction type, cost to rebuild, and elevation
  • Prior insurance/claims
Some things that remain the same are:
  • Existing statutory limits on rate increases require that most rates can not increase more than 18% per year
  • FEMA will continue to offer premium discounts for pre-FIRM subsidized and newly mapped properties
  • Policyholders will still be able to transfer their discount to a new owner by assigning their flood insurance policy when their property changes ownership
  • Discounts to policyholders in communities who participate in the Community Rating System will continue
FEMA estimated that 20% of Florida homeowners will see an immediate premium decrease, 68% will see an increase up to $120, and 12% will see an increase over $120.
Overall, this is good news and a positive, fair change moving forward. Flood insurance can be complex but it doesn’t have to be. Any time we can be of assistance with flood insurance questions, please reach out. We’re happy to help navigate these waters…. literally.

 

Can I have my roof re-shingled or do I have to do a complete roof replacement?

Roofs on homes in Florida are a hot topic of conversation these days. And with the real estate market the way it is now, they can make or break a deal from happening.

Insurance companies in Florida are more strict than ever on the age, condition and life left on a roof. Some may be open to a contractual agreement that the roof will be repaired or replaced within a certain time frame after closing, in an effort to not keep the sale from happening, but most want it done before hand.

There lies some confusion as to whether you can have your roof re-shingled or would need to fully replace the roof, which is typically much more expensive.

In most cases, just re-shingling the roof is not acceptable. The insurance company is looking for the shingles to be replaced down to the plywood rather than just on the surface.

The challenge with re-shingling is:

  1. If you just place new shingles on top of the old shingles, there is not an effective way to identify any issues with the roof decking (the plywood).
  2. If damage occurs in the future, it creates more cost for the insurance company because they are taking off two layers of shingles rather than just one.

Roofing contractors have confirmed that re-shingling may save money or be a temporary band aid for any leaks or issues but long term, it will end up costing more. There are also theories that a roof with two layers such as a re-shingle can hold in more heat, which speeds up deterioration, especially in Florida.

Why home insurance is such a hot topic with house fires

House fires can be one of the scariest and most dangerous events to experience but they serve as unfortunate reminders to homeowners about the importance of adequate home insurance. Although Florida homeowners may be more aware of summer fires that can be brought about during hot months with little rain, winter weather is cause for concern as well. The dry, winter air, as well as the combination of heating devices, holiday decorations and fire places can be a recipe for disaster. And of course there are other things that can start a house fire such as candles, electrical panels, heat lamps, overused or shorting outlets, chargers of all kinds, etc.

Home insurance provides protection for your house and the belongings inside of it in the event of an accidental fire. Your Dwelling coverage is supposed to be at what it would cost to rebuild the entire home (and keep in mind that often times a fire can end in a total loss, even if the flames are contained at some point, due to smoke or extinguisher damage). Then the Personal Property coverage would kick in for all of the furniture, contents, clothing, etc inside. These are two very important coverage limits you want to keep an eye on so they remain sufficient.

Here are a few house fire safety tips:

Have a plan: Homeowners and their families should have an escape plan in the event a fire occurs while individuals are present.

Check your smoke detectors: If you forgot to check your smoke detectors when you changed your clocks, do so now. No really – get up and check your smoke detectors because if you don’t now, you may not later. It’s a good reminder and rule of thumb to do this twice a year when you adjust your clocks for daylight savings time.

Have your fireplace properly inspected before the start of the winter season and properly clean and put out fires after each use. Never leave burning or hot coals unattended.

Use electrical heating devices with caution. In addition to heating your home safely, if it is the holiday season, be sure to unplug all electrical decor and lights when going to bed or the home is unattended. Double check that your chargers (cell phone, computer, golf cart, gaming systems, etc) are not getting too hot.

Never leave lit candles unattended. Unfortunately, people think candles are safe and will just burn down to the wick and go out when the wax is gone. Or that they’re safe being in a glass jar. This is still a dangerous fire hazard.

Take photos or video of your belongings once a year and store with other important documents or sentimental items in a fireproof safe. This will be hugely helpful in the event of a loss.

 

What a Florida 4-Point Inspection Checks, and What Fails One

You found the house, made an offer, and then the insurance company asks for a 4-point inspection. On an older Florida home, that short report can decide whether a company will write the policy. Here’s what it checks, who can sign one, what commonly fails, and what to do next.

One note before we start: we don’t perform 4-point inspections or any other home inspections. McGriff-Williams Insurance is an independent insurance agency in Gainesville, in business since 1983 and licensed in Florida. We help homeowners understand what insurance companies look for.

What is a 4-point inspection?

A 4-point inspection is a short, insurance-focused look at four systems in a home: the roof, electrical, plumbing, and heating and air conditioning (HVAC). The inspector records the age, type and condition of each system.

It is not a full home inspection. The sample form from Citizens Property Insurance Corporation, Florida’s state-created insurer, says the information “is used to determine insurability and is not a warranty or assurance of the suitability, fitness or longevity of any of the systems inspected” (Sample Form Insp4pt 03 25). The same form says acceptable condition means each system is “working as intended and there are no visible hazards or deficiencies.”

Citizens’ sample form is not required, but Citizens says any other report submitted to it “must include at least this level of detail” (Insp4pt 03 25, issued March 2025). Other insurance companies may use their own forms, so ask which one they want.

Which homes need a 4-point?

In our agency’s day-to-day experience, most of the insurance companies we work with require a 4-point on homes about 30 years old and older. Carriers vary, though: some ask sooner, and some may ask for one on a younger home if something about it raises questions. A handful of carriers now waive the 4-point entirely, so ask your agent before you pay for one.

Citizens sets an earlier age. As of its FAQ updated February 18, 2026, Citizens says: “A four-point inspection is mandatory on any Personal Residential Multiperil application for homes more than 20 years old.” Citizens says the requirement applies to new business, and its underwriters may ask for one at renewal case by case (FAQ updated February 20, 2026). Citizens also says 4-point inspections don’t apply to tenant (renters) or condominium policies.

Who can sign a 4-point?

Citizens’ current sample form (Insp4pt 03 25) says the form must be “completed, signed and dated by a verifiable Florida-licensed professional.” It gives these examples:

  • A general, residential or building contractor
  • A building code inspector
  • A home inspector

Citizens’ FAQ (updated February 18, 2026) adds that Florida-licensed architects, professional engineers and building code officials are accepted if their license can be verified. A trade-specific professional, such as an electrician, may sign only the section for their trade. Citizens says it may not accept a form if the right professional didn’t do the inspection or if the professional’s Florida license “is not active or cannot be verified” (Citizens Inspections page, checked October 30, 2026).

Photos the report must include

Citizens’ current sample form (Insp4pt 03 25) lists these minimum photos:

  • Each side of the home
  • Each slope of the roof
  • The water heater, including its temperature pressure relief (TPR) valve, which Citizens added to the photo list in its March 2025 form update
  • Plumbing and drains under the cabinets, and exposed valves
  • The open main electrical panel and its interior door label
  • The electrical box with the panel cover off
  • Each hazard or deficiency the report notes

The HVAC section also asks for photos of the equipment, including the dated manufacturer’s plate. A comments section must detail any updates (what, when and by whom) and any hazards or deficiencies.

What the inspector looks at, system by system

These items come from the fields on Citizens’ current sample form, and other insurance companies’ forms may differ.

  • Electrical: panel type (circuit breaker or fuse), amperage, age and brand; wiring type, such as copper, single-strand or multi-strand aluminum, or cloth (knob and tube) wiring; and hazards such as double taps, over-fusing, scorching or improper grounding.
  • Plumbing: the water heater’s TPR valve, location and age; signs of an active or prior leak; the condition of fixtures and appliance connections; the age of the supply and drain piping; and pipe types such as galvanized, polybutylene or PEX.
  • Heating and air conditioning: central air and heat, whether the systems are in good working order, the date of the last service and the system’s age, plus any wood-burning stove or gas fireplace, a space heater used as the primary heat source, and blockage or leakage at the air handler or drain pan.
  • Roof: covering material, roof age, remaining useful life, the last roofing permit, full or partial replacement, visible damage such as cracking, curling or missing tabs or tiles, and signs of leaks in the attic or on interior ceilings.

Citizens’ form says that with photos of each roof slope, its roof section “can take the place of the Roof Inspection Form.”

Common problems that can fail a 4-point

These are items we see insurance companies commonly ask about, and they may ask for a repair or more information first.

  • Active leaks or unrepaired water damage. Citizens lists signs of active leaks or unrepaired water damage, and plumbing not in good working order, as conditions that make a property ineligible (FAQ updated February 25, 2026). Its Inspections page says serious hazards such as “exposed wiring, active leaks or evidence of leaks” should be repaired before you apply.
  • Polybutylene pipes. As of its FAQ updated January 26, 2026, Citizens says new-business homes more than 20 years old with polybutylene piping aren’t insurable on the policy forms it lists, while homes 20 years old or newer may be eligible if there are no leaks, unrepaired water damage, disrepair or hazards.
  • Single-strand aluminum branch wiring. As of its FAQ updated April 16, 2026, Citizens doesn’t accept it without documented remediation, either a full copper rewire or a connection repair method it accepts; multi-strand aluminum is acceptable. The sample form says remediation must be documented and certified by a licensed electrician.
  • Certain older panel brands. In our agency’s day-to-day experience placing coverage, many insurance companies won’t accept Federal Pacific (FPE or Stab-Lok) or Zinsco electrical panels. The form records the panel’s brand and model, so ask before you buy or renew.
  • Other electrical hazards. The inspector notes fuses, cloth or knob and tube wiring, double taps, over-fusing, scorching and improper grounding, and a noted hazard usually needs fixing. Citizens’ form tells agents not to submit applications for homes with systems not in good working order or with existing hazards or deficiencies.
  • Older roofs. Citizens’ Inspections page says soft roofs, such as shingle, over 25 years old and hard roofs, such as tile or metal, over 50 years old need documentation of at least five years of remaining useful life (checked October 30, 2026). Other companies set their own roof rules.
  • Water heaters and galvanized pipes. The form records the water heater’s age, the TPR valve and pipe types such as galvanized. Rules on water heater age and galvanized pipe vary by company, so ask how the companies available for your home view them.

How long is a 4-point good for?

As of its FAQ updated May 20, 2026, Citizens says the report “must be dated within the last 12 months prior to the new-business application submission date.” There are two exceptions. If lender-placed coverage was in effect within 45 days of the policy’s effective date, the inspection must be done within 10 days before that date. If the home had a prior sinkhole claim, the inspection must be dated within 90 days before the effective date.

Other insurance companies set their own rules, so check before you rely on an older report.

4-point, wind mitigation and roof inspections: how they differ

These three reports are often ordered together, but they answer different questions.

  • 4-point inspection: whether the roof, electrical, plumbing and HVAC are in acceptable condition for the insurance company to write the policy.
  • Wind mitigation inspection: documents a home’s wind-resistant features on the state’s Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form (OIR-B1-1802, Rev. 04/26). Insurers must accept it when it is signed by an inspector authorized under section 627.711(2), Florida Statutes, and it is valid for up to five years if the structure has no material changes and the form has no inaccuracies. Florida law requires insurance companies’ rates to include discounts, credits or other adjustments for qualifying wind-resistant features, and insurers use this form when you submit it (sections 627.0629 and 627.711, Florida Statutes). Whether your home qualifies, and by how much, depends on its features and the insurance company. Wind mitigation reports matter mainly for homes built in 2001 or earlier. If your newer home has impact rated windows and doors, ask us whether a report would help. The inspection may be at your own cost. McGriff-Williams Insurance doesn’t do wind mitigation inspections.
  • Roof inspection: for older roofs, documents condition and remaining useful life. Citizens uses its Roof Inspection Form (RCF-1 03 25).

Florida law says an insurance company can’t refuse to issue or renew a home policy solely because the roof is less than 15 years old. For a roof 15 years or older, the company must let you have the roof inspected by an authorized inspector, at your own cost, before requiring a replacement (section 627.7011(5), Florida Statutes). Roof age can still affect your price and how a roof claim is paid.

Some policies may include a roof payment schedule, which pays a percentage of the cost to repair or replace the roof covering based on the roof’s age and material. Ask us how yours works. Our post on Florida roof payment schedules and roof deductibles explains more.

If something fails: what to do next

  • Ask first. Before you pay for big work, ask your agent which items matter to the companies available for your home.
  • Use licensed professionals and pull permits where required. The form asks for the last roofing permit date and who did each update, and when.
  • Keep your paperwork. Hold on to permits, invoices, before and after photos, and any electrician’s remediation documentation.
  • Get an updated report that shows the repair before you apply.
  • Think about water coverage too. Older plumbing can also affect water damage coverage, as our post on water damage limits for older Florida homes explains, so keep records of any re-piping.

Tips for buyers, sellers and realtors

  • Order the 4-point early, inside the inspection period, and get an insurance quote on an older home before the contingency ends.
  • Sellers: an updated panel, re-piping or a newer roof with permits can make a home easier to insure, so have the documents ready to hand over.
  • A full home inspection doesn’t replace the 4-point, because many insurance companies want the specific 4-point information and photos.

Have an older home or a report with red flags? Call (352) 371-7977 or email quote@mcgriffwilliams.com, and we’ll walk through what it means for your coverage options.

Frequently asked questions

Is a 4-point inspection the same as a home inspection?

No. A 4-point is a short, insurance-focused report on the roof, electrical, plumbing and HVAC, and Citizens’ sample form (Insp4pt 03 25) says it is used to determine insurability and is not a warranty of the systems inspected.

How old does a home have to be to need a 4-point in Florida?

In our agency’s experience, most of the insurance companies we work with require one on homes about 30 years old and older, some ask sooner, and a handful now waive it entirely. Citizens requires one on new-business applications for homes more than 20 years old (FAQ updated February 18, 2026).

Who can do a 4-point inspection?

Citizens’ sample form (Insp4pt 03 25) says it must be completed, signed and dated by a verifiable Florida-licensed professional, such as a general, residential or building contractor, a building code inspector or a home inspector. Ask the inspector for their license type and number before you book.

How long is a 4-point inspection good for?

Citizens says the report must be dated within the 12 months before a new-business application is submitted, with shorter windows in some cases (FAQ updated May 20, 2026). Other insurance companies set their own rules.

Is a 4-point the same as a wind mitigation inspection?

No. A 4-point looks at the condition of four systems, while a wind mitigation inspection documents wind-resistant features on the state’s OIR-B1-1802 form, which is valid for up to five years if nothing material changes. The inspection may be at your own cost.

Does McGriff-Williams Insurance do 4-point inspections?

No. We don’t perform inspections, but we can help you understand what a report means for your insurance and compare coverage options.

General information, not legal or coverage advice. Coverage depends on the policy issued, its terms and underwriting, and insurance company rules change. Citizens details are as of the update dates shown, and sources were checked October 30, 2026.

Sources

When should a wind mitigation inspection be done on a home?

A wind mitigation inspection is completed by a licensed contractor. On a standard homeowners insurance policy, a home may qualify for a hurricane/wind premium discount. A wind mitigation inspection would be required for homes built prior to 2002, since that is when building codes changed.

Homes built in 2002 or after were required to meet roofing regulations by building code, and therefore automatically receive wind mitigation credits. This inspection typically costs between $85 and $150 and the premium discount applied by the insurance company will remain for the life of the home policy.

Wind resistive construction features that are considered when a property is being inspected for wind mitigation credits include:
– Secure roof shingles and roof coverings that meet the Florida Building Code requirements
– Roof decking secured with larger nails or screws closer together
– Hurricane clips/straps that secure the roof to the supporting walls
– Window protection (i.e. shutters, impact resistant glazing, etc.)
– Additional water resistant barriers to prevent leakage in the event that the top layer of roofing is damaged
– Roof geometry or shape of roof

This information may be helpful when questioning whether or not a wind mitigation inspections should be done:

2002 or newer: No wind mitigation needed, credits automatically apply
1990-2001: Very likely to receive credits, especially if roof has been replaced since 2002
1980-1989: Likely to receive credits, especially if roof has been replaced since 2002
1970-1979: Not likely to receive credits, but possible if roof has been replaced since 2002
Older than 1970: Unlikely to receive credits
Flat roof (any age): Unlikely to receive credits